Loop around Chascomus Lagoon

The entire route is paved. In the morning, it was peaceful with almost no traffic. In the afternoon, closer to the city, there was more traffic, but there are paths alongside the road to avoid the cars.

The road is generally in very good condition, and the views of the lagoon are almost constant. There are no major ascents or descents, making it an easy ride.

The only thing to consider is the wind, which will depend on the day. We had a windy day from the southeast, and it was noticeable in some sections.

Cycling around the Laguna de Chascomús is one of the ultimate classics for a bike ride in the Province of Buenos Aires.

It is a very welcoming route, ideal both for beginners getting into cycle tourism and for anyone looking for a relaxed ride while enjoying the pampas landscape, wetlands, and local history.

The Classic Coastal Circuit

• Distance: Around 30 to 32 kilometers (approx. 18–20 miles) for the full loop around the entire lagoon.

• Terrain: Mostly paved (the traditional Costanera Avenue and ring roads), making it very accessible for any type of bicycle (city, hybrid, MTB, or road).

• Difficulty: Low. The route is entirely flat with no steep climbs, making it easy to set your own pace and stop as often as you like.

Highlights Along the Route

1. The Downtown Costanera: This is the most common starting and ending point. Beginning near the historic district or the yacht clubs lets you start off with wide-open views of the water.

2. Docks and Reed Beds: As you advance, the path winds through wetland areas rich in local birdlife (black-necked swans, herons, and coots). There are several wooden walkways and small docks where you can stop for a break, enjoy some mate, or take photos.

3. Paradors and Countryside Canteens: Along various stretches of the route, you'll find rural general stores, snack bars, and roadside cafes where you can refill your water bottle, grab a pastry, or enjoy a cold drink with direct views of the water.

4. Architecture and History: If you detour just a few blocks into the town center, you can add some culture to your ride by visiting Independence Plaza, the Cathedral of Our Lady of Los Remedios, and the iconic Casa de Casco.

Practical Tips for the Ride

• The Wind: Because the terrain is wide-open and flat, the Pampas wind can really pick up. It's always a good idea to check the forecast beforehand to see which way the wind is blowing, which can help you decide whether to ride clockwise or counter-clockwise.

• Sun Protection: The reflection off the water intensifies the sun, so sunglasses and sunscreen are essential, even on cooler days.

• Hydration and Gear: Although there are plenty of spots to grab supplies along the way, it never hurts to carry an extra water bottle and a basic flat-tire kit (spare tube and mini-pump).

Link to watch Day 1:

https://youtu.be/i_ZFQOH2e-k?si=bXpgoVMM9s520EeF
Link to watch Days 2 and 3: https://youtu.be/3DPm8x_pKhg?si=vTKuI1IV_WWH1cOU

Day 1

Despite having some tailwind when leaving Mar de las Pampas, the first 28 km, on wet, loose sand, were very difficult.

I had anticipated the wind blowing towards Mar Chiquita, but not that the beach after Mar Azul would become steep.

The pace became like climbing a mountain.

Upon reaching the Querandí Lighthouse, I couldn't climb its 54 meters because the caretaker wasn't there, as it was December 25th. Even so, I enjoyed the surrounding reserve, thanks to the shade of the enormous trees.

From this point, there were more manageable stretches of beach, with a stronger tailwind and occasional wildlife appearing alone, both dead and alive.

At kilometer 33, a last fisherman was trying to make a profit from the sea, already on the border with the Mar Chiquita Reserve.

The journey from this point onward offered striking landscapes of enormous dunes, ravines with vegetation, many birds, and natural formations thousands of years old, created by the compaction of snail shells and sediments.

After 60 kilometers, I reached the Mar Chiquita Lagoon, unique in the country. I needed to find a boat to cross the inlet, but I didn't know that because I was leaving a Nature Reserve, I had to notify the police first... I learned this when Ariel, the driver of a boat, told me as we crossed the brackish water.

I learned this information when Ariel, the driver of a boat, told me as we crossed the inlet. Once on the opposite shore, teeming with crabs, I headed towards Camping Mar Chiquita, ending the day and falling asleep to the sounds of El Cangrejo Stream, just a few meters from my tent.

There's no drinking water at the campsite, but half a block away, just outside, there's a water tank provided by the municipality where you can fill up your drinking water.

Day 2

After passing through the Mar Chiquita Atlantic Park Biosphere Reserve and a short corridor for migratory birdwatching, skirting El Cangrejo Stream, I headed towards Highway 11. Fortunately, since one of the lanes of this highway was under construction, I was able to drive alone and without the danger of other vehicles.

Already at the entrance to the dirt road towards Nahuel Rucá, I was 14 km from the village, but before arriving I stopped at Estancia El Campamento to see if I could take a rough track to the sign for the old train station.

Despite knocking, no one came out, but I saw a rifle leaning against the gate and decided not to insist, as they were probably taking a siesta... From Nahuel Rucá to Cafuncura, the next village, it's 30 km, with almost no shade, vehicular traffic (only farm machinery), drinking water, and electricity.

I was surprised throughout the journey by millions of blue dragonflies fluttering as I passed by on my bike, and by countless powdery fungi along the side of the abandoned tracks.

And also by a rather long and unusual dusty climb in terrain that is mostly flat. Looking for water and a little charge for my cell phone, after passing the old Cafuncura station, I jumped a gate and looked for Frede's house, following directions from a local child. But when I arrived, his wife couldn't give me water, much less electricity, since the solar panels only powered their own needs.

So I continued along the private road toward the main house of the ranch, to try my luck there...crossing nine gates, a stream, surprising sightings of pampas deer, countless birds, cultivated fields, and hundreds of cattle running in fear ahead of me.

It was 15 kilometers to the tank where I refilled my drinking water supply, courtesy of the ranch workers, who didn't even realize I had walked through the entire property. It was an amazing place, where the concentration of birds near the main house was overwhelming, with so many of each species...I haven't seen anything like it even in the Iberá wetlands.

Jumping over gate number 11 at the entrance, I rejoined the closed section of the highway and, as dusk fell, asked permission at another ranch to spend the night in its vast forest.

It was a completely dark night, filled with the sounds of creatures like opossums, burrowing owls, and other nocturnal insects.

The owner and caretaker were incredibly kind and kind, allowing me to sleep there.

Day 3

At 5:30 a.m., I broke camp and set off for the cabin, this time with a headwind, but only 30 kilometers from the end of the journey.

Once off the highway, I crossed the beautiful coastal towns of Mar Azul and Mar de las Pampas, traveling along winding sandy roads surrounded by forest as far as the eye could see, delighted with the experiences and exercise I had enjoyed.

We left at 9:20 from the Ranchos municipal campground and rode a few kilometers along the road to Chascomús.

Before reaching the lagoon, there's a road leading to Gándara, which we took until we reached the rural village.

We were impressed, even though the dairy was closed. There's a general store there with good service for drinks and food. We chatted with cyclists and locals.

Then, along a road parallel to the railway line, we went to Altamirano. We were surprised by the passenger train activity; people were waiting at the station to go to Chascomús or Buenos Aires.

We ate some empanadas, and the toughest part of the ride was still to come, especially since the temperature was quite high, and the only place to get water was in Alegre, but it was nearly impossible to find any! Before reaching our final destination, which was back at the municipal campground, we went to see the replica of the Ranchos fort.

A great ride with Adriana.

The route through Ranchos, Gándara, and Altamirano is a classic rural and historical journey through the province of Buenos Aires, ideal for traveling by car or bicycle, connecting dirt and paved roads between the districts of General Paz, Chascomús, and Brandsen.

Points of interest along the route:

Ranchos (General Paz District): The district capital, famous for its lagoon, historic center, and fort. It's an excellent starting point to stock up on supplies and begin your rural journey.

Gándara (Chascomús District): A traditional rural area famous for its old and historic dairy plant (now inactive). You can visit the active train station, the Our Lady of the Rosary Chapel, and the old school/monastery. It features recent culinary offerings such as roadside stands or general stores serving snacks and coffee, run by locals.

Altamirano (Brandsen District): A quiet town with a tree-lined diagonal avenue and old houses. It preserves its Roca Railway station, country stores and an ideal environment to rest before starting the return journey.

Another beautiful cycling experience, exploring some new places, at least for me, such as Guardia del Juncal, which I had been meaning to visit for a while. We had a beautiful, albeit cold, day, and the unique thing about this outing was encountering mud – not the annoying kind that stops you from pedaling, but plenty of puddles to navigate around, unlike other places that are quite dry. It's possible that this area has had more rain than others, or perhaps it's because it's a low-lying area that tends to accumulate more water.

At first, we had intense headwinds until we reached La Fortuna store, a historical site (which, luckily, seems to be being renovated for a future reopening).

At that point, we turned towards the Guardia del Juncal area, which is located on private land, but with the precaution of closing the gate, you can visit and take photos of this historical site, which is in ruins.

The road to Abbott is interrupted because you have to cross a broken bridge (which we recently crossed on foot through the riverbed, which this time had plenty of water).

So, you have to cross through a private field that is parallel and has a bridge. We exited at the entrance to Abbott and its paved road, which led us back to enjoying how lovely the town is becoming, with more and more dining options.

We aimed for Pluma Negra, but it was closed because it was a Thursday holiday (Flag Day).

So, we headed to El Abuelo Salvador store, which sells sandwiches, and we shared a lunch in the sun with a friendly group of motorcyclists.

The return was along the road that borders the Roca railway tracks and also runs parallel to Route 3, passing through La Noria on beautiful roads and finally the Panello road to Cañuelas, where, luckily, we arrived and the train was there to take us to Ezeiza, and from there the electric train that dropped us off in Caba. A 100% recommended outing!