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Buenos Aires is renowned for its vibrant street art culture, with both Fodor's and the Huffington Post listing it as one of the top cities in the world to see urban art.

Street art is highly valued and more socially acceptable than in many other cities, and laws are relatively relaxed, with artists usually only needing the permission of the property owner or residents' association to create their work.

This has attracted big name street artists from far and wide, as well as helping local artists make a name for themselves.

The Buenos Aires city government has commissioned several large-scale pieces itself.
Campos Jesses' Frida Kahlo at the junction of Dorrego and Cabrera, Palermo neighbourhood.

Buenos Aires Street Art.

MACA paint mural in Villa 21-24 in Buenos Aires.

The collective MACA together with volunteers completed a huge mural last week in the biggest villa in Buenos Aires.

The artwork of 370m2 in Villa 21-24 in Barracas took the 13 members of the Museo a Cielo Abierto (MACA)  collective six weeks to complete with help from from neighbours from the area.

The project was organised by Catalina Cabrera together with artistic coordinator Julian Zacariaz.
MACA paint mural in Villa 21-24 in Buenos Aires.
This mural featuring a Maori with his tongue sticking out was completed by Niño de Cobre earlier this month in Palermo Hollywood, Buenos Aires.

Niño de Cobre is an Argentine street artist from Santa Fe who specialises in painting realistic portraits.

The face of the man is decorated with ‘ta moko’ or Maori tattoos that often contains ancestral tribal messages specific to the wearer.
Maori mural by Niño de Cobre in Palermo.

Soda Stereo mural by Kiki in Buenos Aires.

Colombian street artist Kiki (real name Cris Herrera) finished a new mural in Chacarita, Buenos Aires dedicated to the Argentine rock band Soda Stereo a couple of weeks ago. The project was organised by BA Joven.

Kiki told BA Street Art: “For me Soda Stereo are one of the benchmarks of music in Latin America when I was growing up and I was really excited by the idea of painting a tribute to the band.

The idea is I chose to develop the mural was to represent the band with Latin American vibe and link it a little to what I like to paint that is nature relating to our ancestors and the spiritual world.”
Soda Stereo mural by Kiki in Buenos Aires.

Alfredo Segatori paints trash mural in Palermo.

Alfredo Segatori has completed a spectacular new mural in Palermo made of recycled materials at a new bar in Palermo. Exclusive photos by BA Street Art.

The artwork featuring a portrait of an old man has been created out of recycled items such as a car parts, bicycle wheels,tyres, rusty cans, a computer, a telephone and scrap metal and was completed two weeks ago for the opening of Desarmadero Bar in Palermo Viejo.
Alfredo Segatori paints trash mural in Palermo.

Owl mural by Paul Mericle in Buenos Aires.

Paul Mericle was in Buenos Aires a few weeks ago and painted this stunning new mural of a Great-Horned owl in Coghlan. The project was organised by BA Street Art.
Read also: Cueva de las Manos, a Cultural Heritage Unesco in Santa Cruz province.
Baltimore street artist Paul Mericle was staying in Buenos Aires for the second time in four months and this is the second mural he’s created, this time featuring an owl that is indigenous to the Americas.
Owl mural by Paul Mericle in Buenos Aires.

New giant mural in Buenos Aires by Spear and Leticia Bonetti.

Belgian muralist Spear together with Argentine street artist Leticia Bonetti completed a new mega mural in Buenos Aires on Sunday. Project was curated and organised by Buenos Aires Street Art. Photos of the process by Adri Godis for Buenos Aires Street Art.

The artwork measuring 700m2 was organised and curated by Buenos Aires Street Art and took 18 days for the two street artists to complete.

The amazing mural has already helped transform the area and bring a smile to many people who live and work in the zone of Saldias. Many thanks to the project sponsors Alba Pinturas, Kuwait Aerosol Urbano and Maquinarias Pyramiz for their fantastic support.
New giant mural in Buenos Aires by Spear and Leticia Bonetti.

Barrio Chino street art by Indigo Ars in Buenos Aires.

Indigo Ars has painted a new series of murals with a Chinese theme in Barrio Chino in Buenos Aires over the last few months. BA Street Art spoke with the Argentine street artist about some of his latest creations and how it all started.
Buenos Aires Street Art, discover the best murals in the city.Click to Tweet
Barrio Chino, located in the neighbourhood of Belgrano (centred around five blocks along Arribeños Street) is a tourist attraction and famous for its Chinese restaurants, food stalls, stores selling imported goods from China and local businesses offering Chinese medicine, massages and acupuncture.

Over the last year, the Chinatown of Buenos Aires has also become well known for its street art.
Barrio Chino street art by Indigo Ars in Buenos Aires.
source images:
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Gnocchi are various thick, small, and soft dough dumplings that may be made from semolina, ordinary wheat flour, egg, cheese, potato, breadcrumbs, cornmeal, or similar ingredients, with or without flavourings of herbs, vegetables, cocoa, or prunes.

The dough for gnocchi is most often rolled out, then cut into small pieces of about the size of a cork.
They are then pressed with a fork or a cheese grater to make ridges which hold sauce. Alternatively, they are simply cut into little lumps.

Gnocchi are usually eaten as a replacement for pasta as a first course, but they can also be served as a contorno (side dish) to some main courses.

Homemade Potato Gnocchi.

Homemade Potato Gnocchi.


2 lbs potatoes
Water to cook the potatoes and gnocchi
2  tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon butter
1/8  teaspoon nutmeg
1 cup all-purpose flour
Classic and Easy Argentinean Recipes for Easter: Homemade Potato Gnocchi.Click to Tweet


  • Peel and cut the potatoes into medium-sized chunks.
  • Add enough water and a tablespoon of salt to a large pot. 
  • When the water comes to a boil, cook the potatoes over medium high heat for 15 to 20 minutes or until tender.
  • Once the potatoes are cooked, strain the water. 
  • Add the butter and nutmeg. 
  • Mash potatoes until they fall apart and let them cool.
  • Once the purée is cold, add the flour and combine gently and thoroughly, but don’t knead it so the dough doesn’t come out too elastic.
  • Divide the dough into 4 or 6 portions and form ropes using your previously floured hands.
  • Cut the ropes into small chunks. 
  • Shape each gnocchi by gently pressing against the inside of a fork with your thumb.
  • Put enough water and a tablespoon of salt in a pot and boil. 
  • When it comes to a boil, add the gnocchi and cook. 
  • Once the gnocchi floats to the top, wait one minute and it’s ready.
Read also: Classic and Easy Argentinean Recipes for Easter: Gnocchi for Luck.
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10 Easy and Tasty Argentine Easter recipes.

Celebrate Easter with family-favorite brunch, dinner and dessert ideas, including hearty breakfast casseroles, deviled egg appetizers, top-rated ham recipes, cute bunny-shaped treats, special holiday desserts and more best-loved Easter recipes.
Homemade Potato Gnocchi.
pancakes with dulce de leche
Read More
10 Easy and Tasty Argentine Easter recipes.Click to Tweet
Gnocchi for Luck
Arroz con Leche y Pasas
Read More

Argentinean-Style Grilled Swordfish with a Spicy-Orange Chimichurri, Pan-Roasted Peppers and Charred Sweet Potato Chips


Rosca de Pascua Delicious Argentine Easter Cake with Orange, Lemon and Almonds from Jordan. 

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Dulce de leche is a confection prepared by slowly heating sweetened milk to create a substance that derives its flavour from the Maillard reaction, also changing colour, with an appearance and flavour similar to caramel.

It is very popular in many Latin American countries.

The most basic recipe calls for slowly simmering milk and sugar, stirring almost constantly, although other ingredients such as vanilla may be added for flavour. Much of the water in the milk evaporates and the mix thickens; the resulting dulce de leche is usually about a sixth of the volume of the milk used.

The transformation that occurs in preparation is caused by a combination of two common browning reactions called caramelization and the Maillard reaction.

pancakes with dulce de leche

Pancakes with Dulce de Leche.

Total: 35 min
Prep: 20 min
Cook: 15 min
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Read also: Classic and Easy Argentinean Recipes for Easter: Oyster Ceviche in the Shell with Popcorn.


     3/4 cup flour
     1/2 teaspoon salt
     1 teaspoon baking powder
     2 eggs
     2/3 cup milk
     1/3 cup water
     1 cup dulce de leche (caramelized condensed milk)*
     2 tablespoons melted butter
     Sugar, for garnish
     Whipped cream, for garnish
     Mint sprigs, for garnish
Classic and Easy Argentinean Recipes for Easter: Pancakes with Dulce de Leche.Click to Tweet


  • In a bowl combine flour, salt, baking powder, milk, eggs, and water. Stir to combine and refrigerate for 3 to 6 hours.
  • Preheat oven at 350 degrees F.
  • Heat a 8-inch non-stick pan. Pour about 3 to 4 ounces of batter into the pan and swirl the pan to coat the pan evenly.
  • When the edges begin to brown, peel the pancakes from the pan and flip over.
  • After 30 seconds, remove the pancake from the pan.
  • When all the pancakes are done, fill them with 1 to 2 tablespoons of dulce de leche and roll them up. 
  • Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with sugar.
  • Warm in oven for 1 or 2 minutes. 
  • Remove from oven, sprinkle with sugar, and caramelize with a propane gas torch.
  • Serve with whipped cream and garnish with mint sprigs.

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Ceviche  is a seafood dish popular in the coastal regions of Latin America and the Caribbean.
Though the origin of ceviche is hotly debated, the dish is most closely associated with Peru.

It is typically made from fresh raw fish cured in citrus juices, such as lemon or lime, and spiced with ají or chili peppers. Additional seasonings, such as chopped onions, salt, and cilantro, may also be added.

Ceviche is usually accompanied by side dishes that complement its flavors, such as sweet potato, lettuce, corn, avocado or plantain. As the dish is not cooked with heat, it must be prepared and consumed fresh to minimize the risk of food poisoning.
Oyster Ceviche in the Shell with Popcorn.

Oyster Ceviche in the Shell with Popcorn.

Total:20 minPrep: 20 min
Yield: 3 to 6 hors d'oeuvres servings
Level: Easy


1 1/2 cups popped popcorn
1 red onion, minced
1 celery rib, minced
1 tablespoon minced ginger
1/4 quarter habanero, minced
4 lemons, juiced
4 limes, juiced
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Salt and pepper


Classic and Easy Argentinean Recipes for Easter: Oyster Ceviche in the Shell with Popcorn.Click to Tweet
  • Pop your favorite popcorn right before party (no butter just salted).
  • Combine the onion, celery, ginger, chile, and citrus juice with cilantro. 
  • Season with salt and pepper.
  • Right before serving, top each oyster with ceviche mix and serve with a big bowl of just popped popcorn.

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The story of the tradition is pretty simple.

The 29th of the month was just before payday — people got paid on the first of the month — so by the end of the month, money was tight and all that was left in the larder was potatoes and flour.

Gnocchi, or ñoquis, are the perfect solution as they are filling and not expensive. The 29th is also the day when an Italian saint, Saint Pantaleo, who had many miracles attributed to him, was canonized. So the tradition of the 29th is said to honor him.

Now families and friends gather on the 29th to eat gnocchi together for good luck. Some restaurants only serve gnocchi on this day, and many offer gnocchi specials. At dinner, for extra luck and prosperity, the tradition is that everyone at the table gets a peso coin or note under their dinner plate.
Gnocchi for Luck

Gnocchi for Luck.

Total:1 hr 40 minPrep: 1 hr 10 minInactive: 20 minCook: 10 min
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Level: Intermediate
Read also: Classic and Easy Argentinean Recipes for Easter: Oyster Ceviche in the Shell with Popcorn.


Creamy Lemon Sauce:
1 tablespoon butter
1 garlic, minced
1 tablespoon flour
1 cup heavy cream
2 lemons, zested
1 cup grated Parmesan


  • Cover potatoes in a large pot with cold water. 
  • Bring the water to a boil until the potatoes are easily pierced with a skewer (30 minutes) do not over cook. 
  • Drain potatoes and let stand until cool enough to handle. 
  • Scrape the skin off the potatoes with a paring knife. 
  • Press the peeled potato through a ricer. 
  • Spread the riced potatoes into a thin even layer on a work surface. 
  • Let cool completely.
  • In a small bowl, beat the egg, salt, pepper, and nutmeg together. 
  • Gather the cold potatoes into a mound and form a well in the center. 
  • Pour the egg mixture into the well. 
  • Knead the potato and egg mixture together with both hands, gradually adding the grated cheese and enough flour, about 1 1/2 cups, to form a smooth but slightly sticky dough. 
  • It should take no longer than 3 minutes to work the flour. 
  • Use a knife or dough scraper to scrape the sticky dough from the work surface back into the dough as you knead.
  • Wash and dry hands. 
  • Dust the dough, your hands and work surface lightly with remaining flour. 
  • Cut the dough into 6 pieces and set off to 1 side of the work surface. 
  • With 1 piece of dough, form a long rope using your hands in a back and forth motion.
  • Slice the rope into 1/2-inch pieces. 
  • Press each piece into the tip of a fork, with your thumb roll the gnocchi off the fork. 
  • Set on a baking sheet with flour.
  • Cook immediately in boiling salted water. 
  • They are cooked when they rise to the surface, about 1 minute. 
  • Toss in Creamy Lemon Sauce and serve.
Classic and Easy Argentinean Recipes for Easter: Gnocchi for Luck.Click to Tweet
Creamy Lemon Sauce:
  • Saute the minced garlic in butter on medium heat. 
  • Add the flour. 
  • Cook for 1 minute. 
  • Add the cream and lemon zest. 
  • After the gnocchi are cooked, toss in the sauce then top with Parmesan.

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It is a delicious dessert you can eat hot or cold and everything will please you.

I recommend eating it hot and sprinkle cinnamon on top.

Arroz con Leche y Pasas

Prep: 10 minCook: 40 min
Yield: 4 to 6 servings


4 1/2 cups milk
1 teaspoon butter
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
2 cups white rice
2 egg yolks
1 orange, zested
1 lemon, zested
1/4 cup currants, reconstituted in rum for 10 minutes


Heat the milk in a sauce pan on low with the butter, sugar and cinnamon.

Mix in rice and let simmer for 30 minutes. Using a whisk, whisk in egg yolks and zests.

Strain the currants, discarding the rum. Add the currants to the rice and serve hot.

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The Russian salad or Russian salad , also known as Olivier salad , is a typical dish in several countries in Europe, Asia and America. Depending on the culinary tradition of each region, it can carry various ingredients, but as a general rule it always includes potatoes and other cooked vegetables amalgamated with mayonnaise .

Can be combined with tuna and other delicacies.

In the Cuisine classique recipe book by Urbain Dubois and Émile Bernard (1856) there is also another version of the Russian salad under the name of salade russe , in which the cooked potatoes are shown in addition to beets, celery, cucumbers, pickles , capers, anchovies, radishes and mayonnaise.


Prep: 25 minCook: 20 min
Yield: 4 servings


1 Yukon gold potato, peeled, small dice and boiled in salted water until tender
2 Peruvian potatoes, peeled, small dice and boiled in salted water until tender
1 sweet potato, peeled, small dice and boiled in salted water until tender
1 large beet, roasted on salt, peeled, small dice
1 carrot, peeled, small dice (blanched)
1 cup peas, blanched if fresh, if not, canned is fine
Spicy Mayonnaise Dressing, recipe follows
Hot Mayonnaise Dressing:
2 tablespoons mayonnaise, homemade is preferable
3 egg yolks
1 lemon, juiced
1 clove garlic
1 shot hot pepper sauce
1 shot Worcestershire
1 1/2 cups vegetable oil


Mix all ingredients together in a large bowl.

Gently fold in the Spicy Mayonnaise Dressing.

Hot Mayonnaise Dressing:
In a food processor, combine all ingredients; slowly add blended oil while on high until becomes a mayonnaise.

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A few days after the Catholic Easter, the housewives think of preparing dishes that respect the religious tradition of not eating meat.

But they only know recipes with fish. Although during the last few days different liturgical specialists of the Catholic Church explained that Holy Week does not necessarily imply the renunciation of eating meat (as indicated by religious tradition) and that the faithful can replace the fast with other acts of voluntary resignation as not smoking, tradition is still a current practice.

It is still customary for housewives to run to the nearest fish market by this date to stock up on the preferred fish or seafood for each family as a practice of the most widespread belief. However, there are other similar practical recipes that respect the custom, easy and delicious to taste.

Argentinean-Style Grilled Swordfish with a Spicy-Orange Chimichurri, Pan-Roasted Peppers and Charred Sweet Potato Chips

Total:1 hr 10 minPrep: 40 minCook: 30 min
Yield: 4 servings
Level: Intermediate

1 1/4 cups extra-virgin olive oil
6 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 large orange, zested
1 large lemon, zested
1/2 cup orange juice
1/4 cup lemon juice
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1 cup chopped fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley, firmly packed
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil leaves, firmly packed
1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves, firmly packed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves
2 large jalapenos; stemmed, ribs and seeds removed, and minced
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced into 1/2-inch rounds
Extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 very large red bell peppers, seeds and ribs removed, cut into large julienne
2 very large yellow bell peppers, seeds and ribs removed, cut into large julienne
2 large cloves garlic, sliced thin
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil leaves
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano leaves
4 (8 to 10-ounce) swordfish steaks, 1-inch thick
Garnishes: orange zest, very thinly sliced jalapeno, 4 thin orange slices (then sliced in the middle to twist).
Warmed sourdough baguette slices

To prepare the chimichurri, place all the ingredients in a food processor and process for 1 to 2 minutes until the ingredients are well combined. Can be used immediately, but for best results refrigerate overnight. Remove from the refrigerator 2 hours before serving, to allow to come to room temperature.

Preheat your grill pan (or outdoor grill) over medium-high heat. Brush each sweet potato slice generously with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle both sides generously with salt and pepper. Grill for 3 to 4 minutes per side, or until tender when poked with a knife (you want some nice char marks on the potatoes.) You may need to grill in 2 batches. Place on a baking sheet, wrap with foil and place in a preheated to 200 degree F oven.

Next, in a large saute pan over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil. When hot add the bell peppers and season generously with salt and pepper. Saute until caramelized, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and saute for an additional 2 minutes. Turn the heat off, toss in the toasted pine nuts, basil and oregano and add a pinch more salt and pepper. Stir to combine and keep warm on the stovetop.

For the swordfish, again heat your grill pan (or outdoor grill) over medium-high heat. Brush both sides of the swordfish generously with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle both sides generously with salt and pepper. Grill until just cooked through, but still moist, about 3 to 4 minutes per side (being careful not to overcook the fish.)

To plate, first put 1/4 of the sweet potato slices onto each of 4 warmed plates. Top potatoes with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a tiny pinch of salt. Next, top the sweet potatoes, with 1/4 of the bell pepper mixture. Then place the swordfish atop that, and spoon a generous amount of the chimichurri over the middle of the fish. To garnish, top the chimichurri with a tiny sprinkling of orange zest, then just a few very thinly sliced pieces of jalapeno, and a twisted orange slice. Serve with warmed sourdough baguette slices and the additional chimichurri on the side. Enjoy!!

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Celebrate Easter with family-favorite brunch, dinner and dessert ideas, including hearty breakfast casseroles, deviled egg appetizers, top-rated ham recipes, cute bunny-shaped treats, special holiday desserts and more best-loved Easter recipes.

Stick to your fast with Lent-friendly recipes from our readers. These hearty fish, seafood and vegetarian dishes are so good, you might even forget meat ever existed.



3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 (10 ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and drained
1/2 small onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup milk
2 eggs, beaten
oil for frying

Preparation: 20 m

Cook: 15 m

Ready In: 35 m

Whisk flour, baking powder, nutmeg, salt, and black pepper together in a bowl. Mix spinach and onion together in a separate bowl. Add milk and eggs to spinach mixture; mix well. Stir flour mixture into spinach mixture until batter is evenly combined.
Heat about 1 inch of oil in a large, deep frying pan over medium-high heat. Oil is ready to use with a drop of spinach batter added to the oil bubbles immediately.
Drop batter, about 1 tablespoon per fritter, into the hot oil; fry until outside edges of fritters are golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove fritters with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel-lined plate. Repeat with remaining batter, adding more oil as needed.

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Since 1882, Sacred Hearts & St. Stephen Church, the oldest Italian church in Brooklyn, holds a Good Friday procession that rounds the corner of my apartment.  I know it’s a block away when I hear the distant strains of music over police sirens.  The neighborhood has changed so much that I wondered if it could really be the same as I headed down the stairs. 

There were still a good number of young families at the start, the neon read cross was still the same, and the church officials in ceremonial dress were still trying to keep everyone moving.  Like every year, the rear of the procession was held by two rows of women, all in black. 

Carrying candles, they escort a life-size statue of Our Lady of Sorrows and repeat the rosary in Italian.  While the earlier phase is lead by slow beating drums, these women are always accompanied by an aria.  It brings tears to my eyes every year. 

It only last a few minutes, then they disappear down the street.  It was a relief to see how little had changed, but I couldn’t help but notice that fewer people had stepped out of their brownstones to watch them pass.


Though I hadn’t made the connection earlier, it was the perfect setting to serve my own very Italian Easter pie by way of Argentina and Uruguay.  Brought to South America by Genoese immigrants, the eggs in the tart symbolize rebirth and according to Francis Mallmann should have 33 layers of pastry in honor of the 33 years Jesus lived.  Already missing the music, I found Italian opera to play in the background while we ate and caught up.  It was lovely but not the same without the rosary chorus.  Felices Pascuas!

Tarta Pascualina
Adapted from Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way by Francis Mallmann.  This is one of my favorite cookbooks, but I gravitate towards the recipes that don’t involve building a pit of fire – out of necessity only.  In his version of the pascualina, he substituted empanada dough for the 33-layers of pastry but I used puff pastry instead.  I also wanted the pie to have a little more depth, so I baked it inside an oven-proof cast iron skillet.  A tart ring or springform pan should work as well.  I’d recently found an Argentinian Parm which is creamier than the Italian and less expensive that worked well but other recipes called for spinach and a combination of cheeses like ricotta and mozzarella.

For the decoration, I used the trimmings from the pastry to make leaping rabbits and flowers.  As Aaron helped me decorate, I had to admit to owning not one but two bunny cookie cutters.  Though it’s traditional at Easter, this is a great make ahead brunch tart.

2 large bunches of swiss chard
2 garlic cloves, peeled and diced
4 medium onions, halved and sliced thinly
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 large eggs, divided
2 1/2 cups Parmesan, grated

Coarse salt, ground pepper, and nutmeg to taste
Pinch of red pepper flakes or merkén (optional)

2 sheets puff pastry, thawed
Olive oil
1 egg, lightly beaten

8-inch cast iron skillet or springform pan

In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of butter and olive oil over medium-low heat.  Add the onions and garlic and sauté until golden, 15-20 minutes.  Set aside.

Trim the ends of the swiss chard and rinse thoroughly.  Separate the leaves from the stems reserving both.  Roughly chop the stems.  Prepare a large bowl of ice water and set aside.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a steady boil.  Blanch the chopped stems in the boiling water until tender, 2-3 minutes.  Remove the stems with a skimmer or slotted spoon and chill in the ice water.  Drain in a colander and set aside.  Return pot of water to a boil and blanch the leaves until just wilted, about 1 minute.  Remove and chill in the ice water.  Combine the stems and leaves and drain both well.  Remove excess water with paper towels as needed.  Roughly chop and set aside.

Combine the chopped swiss chard and onions in a large mixing bowl.  Stir in 4 eggs, one a time until well blended.  Stir in 1 cup of the shredded Parmesan.  Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and red pepper flakes to taste.  Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Grease a cast iron skillet (or 8-inch springform pan) with remaining tablespoon of butter and set aside.

Prepare the pastry.  Roll out one sheet of puff pastry to a 12-inch circle about 1/8 inch thick on a lightly floured surface.  Fit the pastry into the prepared pan, letting the excess drape over the pan.  Brush the pastry with olive oil.  Spoon the filling into the pan and smooth the top.  Create four round wells in the filling.  Carefully drop one egg in each well.  Cover with remaining 1 1/2 cups of cheese.

Roll out remaining sheet of pastry and place on top of the pie.  Trim edges and pleat to design.  Using a sharp knife, cut tiny vents in the top of the pie.  The trimmings can be cut out or shaped for decorations.  Lightly brush with beaten egg.

Bake in the oven until it is puffed and golden brown, 35-40 minutes.  Allow to cool inside the pan.  Let cool to room temperature before serving.

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Roscón de reyes or rosca de reyes (kings' ring) is a Spanish and Spanish American king's cake pastry traditionally eaten to celebrate Epiphany.

In Catalonia, it is known as tortell. In southern France where it is also eaten, it is known as Gâteau des Rois, Corona dels Reis or Reiaume.

Although the name indicates that it should be round, the roscón de reyes generally has an oval shape due to the need to make cakes larger than 30 cm (12 inches) across for larger parties.

Recipes vary from country to country. For decoration, figs, quinces, cherries or dried and candied fruits are used.

It is traditionally eaten on January 6, during the celebration of the Día de Reyes (literally "Kings' Day"), which commemorates the arrival of the three Magi or Wise Men. In most of Spain, Spanish America, and sometimes, Hispanic communities in the United States, this is the day when children traditionally get presents, which are attributed to the Three Wise Men (and not Santa Claus or Father Christmas). In Spain before children go to bed, they leave a dish filled with biscuits and a few glasses of water for the three wise men and the camels they ride on.

The baby Jesus hidden in the bread represents the flight of the Holy Family, fleeing from King Herod's Massacre of the Innocents. Whoever finds the baby Jesus figurine is blessed and must take the figurine to the nearest church on February 2 (Candlemas Day, Día de la Candelaria). In the Mexican culture, this person has the responsibility of hosting a dinner and providing tamales and atole to the guests. In U.S. communities with large Mexican and Mexican-American populations, such as Los Angeles, San Diego, San Jose, Dallas and Chicago, the celebration includes the Mexican hominy stew pozole, which is made for all one's neighbors.


For the rosca:
3/4 cup warm milk (110 to 115 degrees F)
2/3 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
6 whole large eggs, well beaten
1 tablespoon dark rum
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Zest of 1 medium orange
Zest of 1 small lemon
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
3/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and at room temperature
1 whole large egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water

For the pastry cream:
1 3/4 cups water
3/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 cups milk
6 large egg yolks
4 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

For the glaze:
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice (optional)

1 cup sliced almonds, toasted
Jordan almonds to garnish

Prepare the dough. Combine the milk, sugar and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer. Let it stand until it begins to foam, about 10 minutes.

Using the paddle attachment, add the eggs, rum, salt, vanilla, cinnamon, orange zest and lemon zest to the yeast mixture, and stir at low speed until well incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the flour, 1 cup at a time, alternating with the butter, until both are well incorporated, about 3 to 5 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and continue to beat until the dough begins to pull away from sides of the bowl, about 8 to 10 minutes. The dough will be smooth but still sticky. Pour the dough into an oiled bowl and cover with lightly oiled plastic wrap. Place in a warm, draft-free place. Allow the dough to rise until it doubles in bulk, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Refrigerate the dough until well chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight.

Prepare the pastry cream. Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan, and bring to a boil. Simmer over medium heat until it thickens slightly and registers 200 degrees F on a candy thermometer, about 5 to 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Combine the milk, egg yolks, cornstarch and salt in a mixing bowl, and whisk until the mixture is well combined and there are no visible yolks. Pass the milk mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a separate 3- to 4-quart saucepan. Whisk in the cooled syrup and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it thickens and coats the back of the spoon, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat and stir in the vanilla. It will continue to thicken as it cools. If not using immediately, cover the surface of the cream with parchment paper and refrigerate until chilled, up to 2 days.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line a large baking sheet with a nonstick liner or parchment paper.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Roll the dough into a large log shape, then join the ends to create a ring with a hole in the middle. Place a large cookie cutter in the center to maintain the opening while it bakes. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Allow to rest until doubled in volume, about 1 1/2 hours.

Brush the dough with the egg wash. Place in the preheated oven. Bake until golden brown, about 35 to 40 minutes. Remove the bread from the oven and cool on a wire rack.

Prepare the glaze. Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan, and bring to a steady simmer for about 5 minutes. Stir in the orange juice. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Assemble the rosca. Carefully halve the bread horizontally with a serrated knife. Spread the bottom layer with pastry cream and replace the top of the rosca. Brush the top of the rosca with the glaze and cover in toasted almonds. Decorate with sugared almonds, if using, or decorative sugar.

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On a slope of the Sierra de Velasco, north of the province, there is a stone city, more than a thousand years old. Its walls treasure the memory of the Hualco culture. Tourists, scientists and archaeologists travel today.

The excursion to the ruins of Hualco begins directly on route 40, which serves as the main street of the handful of small towns scattered along the route and the Los Sauces river. This crystal clear river is used by farmers to plant the surrounding land with fruit and vegetables.

During the trip, the local guide Fabián Yapura takes tourists to see the different villages in the area, their picturesque churches and their adobe houses in complete harmony with nature.

In Alpasinche, one of those small towns, your old vineyards attract attention, whose fruits are ground in the family wineries where the Patero wine is made.

When you reach the town of San Blas you can see the homonymous church -data from 1732-, where every February 3 the patron saint of the gorges is worshiped in a religious festival that is a true festival of song.

Less than a kilometer the route forks and you have to leave the national route 40 to take the left and go into the mountainous landscape and the Hualco streams.

The wild road that leads to the ravines, contrasts with the dense vegetation that is seen in the valley that sleeps at your feet. The greenery gave the name to the area known as Valle Fertil or Valle Vicioso.
Trio of gorges. Further ahead is the El Rincón stream, the first of a triad that includes Hualco, where the archaeological site is located, and Andolucas.

The Andolucas stream is famous for the deep backwaters that form with the fresh waters that come down from the mountain and fall with force in the form of a jet in a great natural piletón called the Olla de Andolucas.

It also has camping and infrastructure to stay several days, like El Rincon. Three other streams complete the natural mosaic, but the access to its water pools are exclusive for adventurers who dare to climb giant rocks surrounded by flowering cacti. The postcard is worth it.

Interpretation Center. The Interpretation Center was inaugurated on January 30. It is built with materials from the area such as adobe, wood and cane.
It is the starting point where the circuit begins towards the ruins themselves.

In this place many of the objects found during the excavations are exhibited: vessels, earthen pots, arrowheads, ornaments and even a funerary urn approximately 50 centimeters in diameter with bones inside.

In addition there are gigantografías that explain from the discovery of the place in the decade of 1950 by the priest Martín Gómez until the last works of restoration.

La Rioja treasures hidden and almost anonymous places that do not integrate the massive tourist circuits. In the southern vertex, 150 kilometers from the capital city, the Quebrada del Cóndor is a clear example that there are still places to discover.

The trip to the natural reserve Quebrada de los Cóndores is done in four-wheel drive vehicles and starts from Tama, a small town that lies 180 kilometers south of the city of La Rioja, up to the Sierra de Los Quinteros. Blessed by a remote geography, these unique granite rocky outcrops, upholstered with grasslands, small streams and cactus in bloom, protect 80% of this community of Andean condors, made up of 150 specimens. A species that is on the verge of extinction throughout the continent.

The post. Reaching the rural post of Santa Cruz de la Sierra demands three hours on the way. But time is not felt, because the undulating landscape rises gently and lulls the traveler. This is the base point to reach the Quebrada de los Cóndores. José de la Vega is a tired and cordial man, and host of the centenary house where his ancestors lived. Today, his dwelling is open to visitors.

A rustic dining room is the setting to enjoy the delights of Rioja cuisine served, such as chicken stew, kid the clay oven, locro, empanadas, goat stew and wild fruits harvested "in situ" by the same visitor.

Towards the Quebrada. From the rural outpost there is a horse ride to a beautiful mountain ledge near the home of the owners of the place: the majestic condors that plan the Rioja sky. The excursion begins with a walk to the place where the horses wait, to undertake the ride that lasts almost an hour and a half, time necessary to cross the 4 kilometers to the natural viewpoint. The route, slow and precautionary, draws small streams and springs that sprout between the immense rocks, until you reach the gorge that leads to the 'Mirador de los Cóndores'. This natural platea is a gigantic boulder that protrudes from the cliff about 3 or 4 meters, at more than 1800 meters above sea level.

After traveling a narrow trail that meanders the mountain, reaching the top of this ledge that dominates the landscape, is the great secret. From there you can see rows of mountains covered with green, several streams that mark a deep line between the ravines and the road to the post. The overwhelming presence of the cliff, chosen by these kings of the air to establish their dwelling, causes a dose of impression. Perhaps for this reason, they developed the capacity to live in these hidden mountains, whose nooks and crannies are optimal to protect the nests.

The appearance of them on stage is immediate. More than forty condors plan stealthy in the presence of strangers, which does not prevent them give a synchronized flight for two hours.

The sunset marks the return, with the sun that is hidden and a light descent that seals a hypnotic encounter with the kings of the sky: the condors of the Quebrada.

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